![]() Nintendo connects all peripherals with a proprietary plug. So, if you want a long-living controller, I would go with the original, if you just need a cheap input device, you might have luck with a Nunchuk copy. However, I applied a Kalman Filter, which levels these differences. Also the quality of the accelerometer of the original is better. #Wii u serial number starts with j fullThe joystick of the original has a higher quality, it can resolve all movements in the full range of values, while the copy doesn't react to minimal movements. What I can say is, the wires of the cable of the original Nunchuk are shielded, which makes them more robust against disturbances. Both versions are far away from expensive, but the difference is about 10-15€. In order to test my Nunchuk driver, I bought both - the original and a cheap copy. The big question is, should you buy an original Nintendo Nunchuk or a chinese replica. As a minimum, you'll need the following parts for this set-up: Parts It's recommended to operate the Nunchuk with 3v3 and you should defintely use a level shifter if you can't supply that voltage to increase it's lifespan. On top of the device is an analog two-axis joystick and the whole device is sensible to movements, since an accelerometer measures forces acting on all three dimensions. The Nunchuk has two membrane buttons, called button C and button Z. In this article, I'll guide you through the details and implement it for an Arduino. That's why I focused on filling this gap and here it is. ![]() As it is so easy, I thought there must be a standard solution for it, but couldn't find a stable implementation, but only loads of code snippets. As it uses I 2C as transportation protocol, it's easy to access the raw data of the controller. A great invention of Nintendo is the Nunchuk, a cheap extension for the Wii U remote. We've all grown up with gamepads in the hands, which makes them ideal to combine them with literally any possible application. Using a Wii Nunchuk with Arduino December 19th, 2016.
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